Red Bugs, Black Pottery

This is our last week and I must say, I'm not ready to leave. Every day has been a delight of the senses, the visuals, the learning, the smells (worse now that the garbage collectors are on strike) but that does not stop us!

Our group has been presenting our fabulous lesson plans and units of study all day for three days. Each evening we had a film documentary at the local theatre (two bulbs overhead) with the filmmaker there for the Q&A afterwards. Film topics have been the use of pesticides by indigenous people who are hired by tobacco companies. Many are ill with cancer because they can't read the precautions (written in English and Spanish) on the side of the containers. They speak Zapotec or Triki or any other of the dozens of local languages. Another film was about women who try to get involved with politics and are threatened, sabotaged etc.

The most moving to me was the women who get tricked into being "mules". Sometimes even by a family member. They carry the drugs, get busted, don't even know what they're carrying and spend 10 years in jail. Why did they do it? They're poor, needed the $20, and were forced to sign a confession. Even though they had a court appointed lawyer, the lawyer only spoke Spanish and like I said earlier, many people here speak their own language. The best part about being an artist and protesting is that the film was shown to judges and 7 women were let go.

People here are trying to make it but are thwarted from all sides.

Dancing...there's always something to see on Sundays in the Zocalo.
Part of my art unit is to learn about body ornamentation that the Zapotecs had at Monte Alban. Here the group tries on the nose decor. This was shot in the Etnobotanical Garden which is right outside our classroom door.
Colonial architecture. This is the front door to the theatre. Somewhat Baroque but with a hint of Art Nouveau.
What did I tell you? Stephanie NEVER travels on a paved road. We are leaving the Cochineal Farm. Did you know where your red dye used to come from? Little bugs.
One of our very exciting, and very delicious lunches...though the ambiance is questionable. You missed the semi trailer that just went by. This is San Bartolo Coyotepec, home of the very famous black pottery. My mother bought some in 1967. I bought her another piece today for her patio.
Here's the Cochineal nursery. They hatch in the little baskets, crawl out and then the females imbed themselves in the Nopal cactus leaf. The males die. The whole process takes about 3 months.
This 91 year old potter would not stay still for a second-all photos of her are blurry. Elise asked her about the process in Spanish.

When the clay is leather-hard they carve it, then polish it with quartz or obsidian. The clay is fired in a kiln with wood. No glaze. To get it to hold water they fire it at a much higher temperature, the surface then melts more and takes on a rainbow-like sheen. Like oil on water.

Now back to finish packing. I transfer to a hotel for the last night and leave at 4 am for the airport Sunday morning. Tonight is our last get together. Dr. Spores is coming and were all excited!